Laying Turf

Want good quality turf laid by experts to give you a healthy looking lawn?
If you are landscaping a new garden or you just want to replace flower beds or tree stumps with attractive turf.

If you are thinking about artificial turf – artificial grass (some people incorrectly call it Astra Turf ). Think carefully and ask the supplier how long it will stay green before the ultra violet rays in the sun bleach it yellow? Artificial grass is not cheap so you want to make sure it will last more than a few years.

Please contact us for a free lawn survey or quote before you decide to remove your old lawn and lay new turf or reseed your lawn.

  • We will even tell you how to save money by showing you how we may be able to rescue/ improve your existing lawn and avoid paying for a new lawn – even if your lawn is full of weeds and moss we may be able to save you money and salvage your lawn.
  • We supply and deliver turf to people and lay hundreds of square metres of lawns per year.
  • Our quotes are free of charge and easy to read.
  • We can even put a treatment program in place returning periodically to keep the lawn looking good after we have laid them.
  • We use hard wearing utility turf that is ideal for the local conditions.
  • Our prices for turf and for installing are great value for money and our teams are experienced, quick efficient and clean up leaving the premises like they found them.
  • We can provide you with an easy to read very competitive written quote and can lay a new lawn within 10 days of you contacting us – in many cases we can be there in less time.
  • We can level and over seed lawns – scarify them to remove dead moss and thatch. We spike and aerate lawns to relieve compacted soil and improve surface drainage – we also install drainage.

Call us for a free survey tell us how large the area you need turf for and we will send you quote by email or text.

Our lawns look really good but do you really need to spend money on a new lawn?

We may be able to save you lots of money by treating your existing lawn and improving the appearance by applying professional fertilisers to improve the health and condition of your lawn or grass.You may think your lawn is beyond repair but we can salvage lawns at a much lower price than it would cost you paying for new turf. Lawn and weed expert are very experienced at controlling -killing – removing weeds from lawns using safe but effective selective systemic herbicides that kill weeds including their roots.

We provide lawn care services throughout Cardiff, Newport, Vale of Glamorgan, Swansea, Port Talbot, Neath, Merthyr, Maesteg, Bridgend, Porthcawl, Cowbridge, Barry, Penarth, Pontypridd, Monmouth, Chepstow, Caldicot, Abergavenny, nearly everywhere with a CF NP or SA post code.

Leather jackets and Schaefer grubs can destroy a lawn in less than 10 days. It is important that you are made aware of what to look out for and identify the tell-tale signs of leather jacket (Crane fly larvae) of Schaeffer grub infestations?

All lawns less than 5 years old can be susceptible to attacks from crane fly larvae or leather jackets. Crane fly can lay thousands of eggs in the summer the eggs hatch out and the larvae start to eat the roots of the grass. If the grass roots are young succulent and tender the larvae can destroy or damage the root and the grass will die from lack of moisture. If the grass is older and more established the roots are tougher and bitter and the larvae cannot damage them.

WE ALSO HELP PEOPLE LOOK AFTER THEIR LAWNS by telling when to cut and how much to cut and when to water etc.

Please email and ask us for our information sheets  “Basic Lawn Care Tips”

Basic tips and rules for lawn care

Your lawn is a living thing and like all living things deteriorates as it gets older. Like a car servicing it regularly maintains its condition and can avoid big repair bills. Replacing a lawn is expensive; it is cheaper to look after what you have. To help you we have listed the following basic tips to help you look after your lawn.

The weather and various other conditions such as quality of soil, shade, mowing height and frequency, type of grass, insect damage and drainage are critical to the health and appearance of any lawn.

Mowing Grass

Mowing Grass responds to regular mowing and feeding. Never cut your grass shorter than 1 – 1.1/2 inches and never remove more than 1/3 of its overall length at any one time. Remove clippings. Do not scalp the grass especially in dry weather. If the grass is not growing quickly just give it a light cut to tidy it up. Let it grow longer in very dry weather – it will become more drought tolerant.


Lawns under shade and in sheltered positions stay damper longer and dampness encourages moss. Grass also requires a few hours of sun each day to grow correctly. If you can, cut back branches and shrubs to let light and airflow onto the lawn


In South Wales most lawns tend to be on heavy clay soils that are poorly drained, hold water encouraging dampness. Thin sandy soils drain too quickly. Clay soils need sand and sandy soils need organic matter added in order to retain moisture.


Grass enjoys and thrives in periods of warm wet weather. It can also tolerate cold dry, cold and wet and hot and dry periods. Too much rain creates dampness and encourages moss. Too dry and the grass is stressed through lack of moisture. Too much snow can create problems with diseases. Stay off grass in heavy frosts and very dry weather.

Watering your lawn

All living things require water grass can tolerate dry weather. Prolonged periods of dry weather can cause damage. If we have more than 2 weeks of dry weather you need to water. If after walking on it your grass stays flat and does not spring back up then it requires water. To water correctly leave a jar with a line ½ inch from the bottom under your sprinkler when the water reaches the line move the sprinkler and start again. It is better to water heavily once a week than every night! Watering every night will encourage the roots to turn towards the damp surface and encourage moss.

Leaf fall and other debris

Try to remove leaves as soon as you can. Just leaving them on the grass for a few days can weaken grass. Grass needs to receive sunshine or it will die.

Weeds and moss.

Weed seeds and moss spores are carried on the wind, land randomly and quickly establish themselves. Weeds are easier to control 2 applications of a professional herbicide will keep your lawn 90% weed free. Moss is usually the biggest problem on most lawns and must be treated every year to avoid causing serious damage. A good moss control product turns the moss black. Be careful not to apply too much or you may scorch your lawn. Dead moss must be raked out and seed sown in bare patches of your lawn

If you neglect your lawn it will deteriorate quickly. The basic rules for treating lawns are as follows.

Late winter early spring

Apply a fertiliser high in nitrogen to give the grass the nutrients it requires to grow in the wet warm spring conditions. Combine it with an application of herbicide to control weeds. Do not use a total weed killer on your lawn they kill grass as well! Use a selective weed killer to just control weeds not grass. Do not apply too much you could scorch your lawn.

Late Spring Summer

Apply a fertiliser with a lower nitrogen content but high in phosphorous and potassium content. These are nutrients critical for root development. Combine the feed with a second application of herbicide to control more difficult clovers and weeds that appear later in the year. Too much nitrogen will also create too much unhealthy top growth

Late summer early autumn

Apply a fertiliser with a high potassium and phosphorous content combined with a dose of moss control. Moss will turn brown / black and needs to be raked out for grass to grow.(see scarification)

Late Autumn & Winter

Apply a very heavy dose of moss control and iron to toughen up the grass over the winter and improve colour. Moss will turn brown / black and needs to be raked out for grass to grow. Consider scarifying and aerating the lawns.

Be careful some lawn care companies use only high nitrogen feeds that will green up your lawn in the short term but will eventually produce too much growth and create an over crowded spongy thatchy lawn. Check what they are using and insist they use the correct range of nutrients after all it is your lawn not theirs.

Weed killers.

Weeds are controlled by herbicides. The weeds need to be growing to die off effectively. Controlling weeds in cold or very hot dry weather tends to be a lot slower as the metabolism of the weeds (and grass) is a lot slower. Weeds are 70 % water and decompose quickly usually wilting 10 – 21 days after treating in normal conditions. They may tale longer in dry or cold conditions.

Moss control.

Moss can be controlled at most times of the year but it does not decompose easily and the dead moss carcass may just sit on the soil surface blocking any new grass growth. Dead moss should be raked out from the lawn. Scarifying is a mechanical process of raking out dead moss and thatch – it is brutal and may leave your lawn looking bare and untidy and requiring top dressing and over seeding to recover. It is sensible to schedule scarifying just before a period of warm wet weather that will help the lawn recover. Do not scarify in extreme temperatures as your lawn may not recover for several months

Aeration and compaction.

With wear soil/lawns become compacted over time meaning that the soil particles are pushed closer together reducing the spaces between them which prevents oxygen etc and moisture moving through the soil. Aeration and spiking punch holes into the soil improving aeration. Cores pulled out of the soil should be collected not left on the surface. Aeration improves surface drainage – it does not improve overall soil drainage.

Disease and pest damage. There are a number of diseases and insects that can damage your lawn. Regularly inspect your lawn and look out for excessive weed and moss growth, discoloured grass or bare patches.

Brown patches. There are a number of different reasons for brown patches on your lawn. Insects – leather jackets can cause serious damage in a few days. Animal urine will create dark green patches will can turn into scorch marks. Petrol or chemical spills also cause scorch marks. Walking on your lawn when it is frozen or covered in snow can cause brown marks to appear later in the year.

Top dressing and over seeding, this is simply spreading a mixture of sand and soil over your lawns surface to improve drainage and irritate / impede moss growth. The principle is to gradually create a layer of sandy well drained soil on the surface and even out any undulations. Seed can be added to thicken up the lawn.

Growing grass from seed. Grass seed requires three things – good soil contact, warmth and moisture to germinate. If it is too dry, too cold or even too hot seed will not germinate. The best time to sow seed is early spring and late summer early autumn.

Hope the above is helpful. If you have any questions please do not hesitate to call Lawn and Weed Expert  on 02920 397554

Email us


Watering, Mowing, and Looking After Your Lawn

Watering My Lawn

Lawns will begin to show signs of stress after approx one week without moisture. Lawns that require watering will start to lose their lush shiny appearance then dull before developing brown patches. Grass short of moisture also stays flat after you have walked on it. Just like a flower, grass wilts when it needs water. Here are some tips to make the grass more drought tolerant. Reducing how much you cut off the grass plant by raising the height you are cutting the grass will reduce grass stress in the short term by retaining more moisture in the plant.

If you can water make sure you water your lawn heavily once or twice a week rather than a small amount every evening. Watering too frequently keeps the upper soil moist and encourages the grass roots to grow towards the surface searching for water making them less drought tolerant. Getting the moisture deep into the soil encourages root penetration. Grass with long healthy roots can handle droughts better. Stay off the lawn when it is very dry as you may damage the grass. Avoid watering in the late evening. Early morning and mid afternoon are the better times.

Thatch on the surface and in the sub soil will absorb moisture stopping it getting into the soil and to the roots. Thatch should be removed by scarifying and aerating to allow moisture to penetrate into the soil and roots. Top dressing after aeration or spiking with a sand based top dressing will help keep the holes created open longer improving soil ventilation.

Wetting agents. Making your lawn more drought tolerant and curing Dry Patch.

Brown patches in the lawn can be caused by a fungus which makes the soil hydrophobic. Wetting agents can be used in periods of drought to reduce the effects dry patch can have on your lawn. (See dry patch in turf diseases.) Wetting agents are applied to the lawn and encourage the maximum usage and absorption of moisture by the soil and help treat areas of grass affected by dry patch. Dry patch can severely weaken large areas of grass in any lawn it affects.

Dry patch. Hydrophobic dry patch.

During periods of dry weather a fungus builds up around the soil particles and will have an effect of repelling the water droplets in the soil. A severe case of dry patch will result in the soil almost being unable to absorb water and any rain will run across the surface of the soil like rain on a glass plate. The grass suffers as moisture is not reaching down to the roots. Aerating your soil by spiking or hollow tine aeration combined with an application of a wetting agent to tackle the fungal disease will improve the water absorption properties of the soil and benefit the grass. Dry patch is an increasing problem in our dry windy summers.

Leaves and Shade.

Do not let leaves or any other debris remain covering the grass for more than a 3 or 4 days. If the grass does not receive light for a few days it will start to yellow and will die. If you have areas of lawn that are heavily shaded by tree branches the grass will suffer. Do not cut grass in shaded areas as short as other parts of the lawn. If you can raise the crown of the tree by removing the lower branches and let sunlight onto the lawn this will help. Trees will compete with grass for moisture and nutrients. Trees take less water and nutrients in the Autumn so that is the best time to give the grass plenty of fertiliser and moisture to help it develop. Collect or move leaves and debris as quickly as possible.


Mowing is the key to lawn care so these tips can help make sure your not contributing to your lawn problems:

  • Try to alternate the direction of your cut
  • The first cut of the year in the spring should be on a high setting for a slight trim to tidy up the lawn and collect debris.
  • Gradually decrease the height until you are leaving the grass at about 1.5 + inches
  • Never cut off more than 1/3 of the grass at any one time.
  • If the grass grows long before you can cut it, holidays bad weather etc, remember the 1/3 rule.
  • If you have the time mow twice a week in the summer and once a week in the spring and autumn, once a week during dry periods.
  • Make sure the blade is sharp and the mower does not leak petrol
  • Do not fill the mower with petrol while it is on the lawn
  • Clippings should be collected
  • Get your mower regularly serviced including sharpening your blades

Mow around the edge of your lawn first to ensure you have a turning border taking care that the wheels do not drop off the edge and scalp the grass. Starting from one side mow and then turn at the far edge. Line your mower to slightly overlap the strip that you have cut. Empty the grass box regularly as a full box will leave clippings on the grass or clog the mower. Try to avoid mowing on frosty or wet days. Never cut the lawn shorter than 1.5 inches. In periods of dry weather raise the cut to allow the grass to retain more moisture and be slightly more drought tolerance.

Lawns in Shady Conditions

Grass under shade is prone to deteriorate if it does not receive enough light. Grass under trees competes for sunlight, nutrients, water and suffers from the drip off the canopy. Shade tolerant grasses also require at least 4- 5 hours of sunlight each day. Cut the lawn less frequently and do not cut too short. Fertilise in the autumn when the trees will not compete and take in the fertiliser. Regular over seeding with shade tolerant seed mixes will help to restore weak areas under any reasonable shade. Even shade tolerant seed requires some light. Over seeding is best carried out in the autumn to avoid competing with the trees for food on the soil

Lawn Recovery after drought

  • Consider applying a wetting agent to help the soil absorb moisture and save evaporation and run off of moisture
  • Scarify and aerate your lawn to remove dead thatch and open up the soil surface improving ventilation. Apply a fertiliser high in phosphorous and potassium to assist rooting but low in nitrogen to avoid surge growth.
  • Over seed sparse areas of the lawn in conditions of wet warm weather.
  • Apply a moss control to stop moss colonising during the damp winter weather
  • Raising the height you are cutting the grass will reduce grass stress in the short term by retaining more moisture in the plant.
  • If you can water make sure you water heavily once or twice a week rather than a small amount every evening. Watering too frequently keeps the upper soil moist and encourages the roots of the grass to grow towards the surface searching for water making them less drought tolerant.
  • Stay off the lawn when it is very dry as you may damage the grass.
  • Thatch on the surface and in the sub soil will absorb moisture stopping it getting into the soil and roots. Thatch should be removed by scarifying and aeration carried out to allow moisture to penetrate into the soil. Top dressing with a sand based top dressing will help keep the ventilation holes created open longer.

Controlling the rate of growth

Growth regulators are produced that slows down the rate that grass grows at. An application a few weeks before you go away on holiday for example, will slow down the rate of grass growth to the point that on your return your garden may look a little untidy but certainly won’t resemble a jungle!

Lawn Top Dressing Service

Lawn Care and Weed ControlTop dressing is a vital part of lawn care maintenance and can be a key factor in making critical long term improvements to the health and condition and hence the appearance of any lawn.

The soil that a lawn depends on plays a major part in the development of the lawn. If you have thin sandy soils which are common in some areas of Porthcawl and Ogmore or heavy clay soils such as the soils in North Cardiff they are not ideal for lawns and you may need to consider influencing the nature of your top soil by top dressing. You can significantly improve the quality of your top soil by adding a specific mixture of top dressing to compliment and gradually change the properties of your existing soil.

If your lawn has heavy clay soil introducing a layer of fine sandy soil top dressing on the surface will stimulate grass growth, encourage greater rooting, improve surface drainage allowing the soil surface to dry out quicker thereby reducing the opportunity for moss to develop. Serious drainage problems can be solved by introducing simple land drainage. If you spike or hollow tine aerate your lawn and then top dress the sandy soil will find its way into the holes improving ventilation and reducing compaction.

Prevention is always better than the cure and preventing compaction and limiting damp soil surfaces will certainly make it more difficult for moss to develop. Thick healthy well fed grass also makes it difficult for weeds to develop.

Top dressing is labour intensive and sourcing the right quality top dressing can be difficult and expensive when delivery costs are calculated.. Approx 5kg of top dressing will cover 1 square metre. Grass seed can be added to the top dressing to thicken up the lawn. Top dressing is comparable to varnishing a boat several layers have to be applied over a period of time.

Lawn and weed expert provides its customers with a comprehensive top dressing service which can be incorporated into the lawn care program at any time. It is most effective in the Autumn, early Winter, Spring and early summer particularly if you want to add grass seed to the mix. Lawn and Weed Expert can make top dressing your lawn a simple exercise. We order, source and spread the top dressing, working the dressing into your lawn using a level lute or drag mat. If you do your own top dressing take care not to cover the grass with too much dressing as this may damage the grass.

Most lawn problems are caused by damp soil surfaces and thin grass growth due to, poorly fertilised and compacted soil . Combining spiking or hollow tine aeration and top dressing with over seeding is a significant proactive process improving the soil conditions and when combined with other seasonal treatments of fertiliser and herbicide helps to thicken up the grass and pre-empt other lawn problems.

Poorly Drained & Waterlogged lawns – Soil Compaction & Aeration

Lawn Care and Weed ControlA typical characteristic of a waterlogged lawn is a sticky covering of paste like soil sitting on the surface. Compaction caused by steady footfall or even heavy rainfall result in slow draining areas that hold water and form puddles. Relief can be achieved by penetrating the soil to a depth of 4 “ then top dressing — filling the holes with sandy top dressing to act as mini ventilation shafts improving the flow of water and air to the roots. Work should be carried out in the autumn as opposed to the spring and a rich feed of potassium used to assist root development.

Aeration and Top Dressing assists by improving surface drainage. More serious cases may require land drainage.

Lawn Aeration and Spiking Service

Hollow tine aeration

Soil, particularly heavy clay soils has a tendency to compact. The soil particles get pushed closer together by heavy rainfall or traffic on the surface making it difficult for moisture and gases essential for grass development to flow freely back and for through the soil to the roots and surfafoot ce leading to poor root development. Poorly developed roots -lead to weak grass and poor drought and disease tolerance.

Our Lawn Aeration Service is Quick, Affordable, & Highly Effective. Call us today and you can also take advantage of our Free Lawn Care Survey worth £25 (click here to visit our contacts page).

Compacted ground can have serious consequences for any lawn but can be cured by simply aerating the soil. Lawn and Weed Expert can easily aerate your lawn and relieve compaction. We have professional aerating machines that move across the lawn surface punching metal spikes 2- 3 inches into the ground making hundreds of small holes in the lawn. The spikes can be hollow to enable them to pull a soil core out of the ground which helps remove troublesome thatch as well as aerating the ground. Lawns should be regularly aerated to ensure that the grass roots are healthy and can develop.

The royal horticultural society recommend that laws are spiked every 2- 3 years and hollow tine aerated every 3- 4 years

Heavy soils will become compacted and need to be hollow tine aerated to reduce the effects of the compaction in the soil and can be top dressed with a 70 % sand loam mix to improve soil ventilation once every 3 – 4 years

Garden Scarifying Services

Thatch is a build up of dead organic matter laying on the soil surface. Thatch is a natural occurrence as old grass stems die and are replaced by new ones. Bacteria in the soil digest the thatch breaking it down into nutrients for other plants. In severe cases of heavy thatch the bacteria cannot digest all the organic matter and the thatch builds up and forms a fibrous layer on the soil surface. This layer acts like blotting paper preventing the flow of moisture, oxygen and carbon dioxide to and from the grass roots.

Our Lawn Scarification Service is Quick, Affordable, & Highly Effective. Call us today and you can also take advantage of our Free Lawn Care Survey worth £25 (click here to visit our contacts page).

It is vital that thatch is not allowed to build up as it can have a disastrous effect on any lawn weakening the grass, encouraging moss and diseases. Scarifying is the physical process of removing thatch from the soil surface. It used to be carried out by using a wire rake. The Lawn and Weed Expert have powered machines which scarify far more comprehensively and are far more efficient than raking. Several vertical metal blades revolve at high speed around a shaft and dig into the ground as the machine is pushed along the lawn. The blades can be set at various heights from the surface and consequently take out various amounts of thatch etc. As well as removing thatch and dead moss the blades also prune the shoots of the grass plant encouraging stronger growth.

Scarifying is much more vigorous and effective than raking or using an electric lawn rake which tend to just take our some of the thatch. Scarifying pulls the dead moss and thatch out of the lawn and in the short term makes the lawn look far worse before it recovers. It is important to schedule scarifying so that it is followed by the appropriate weather conditions that assist the lawn with its recovery. Never scarify without previously applying some moss control 2/ 3 weeks in advance. If you scarify without applying moss control you are spreading moss spores across your lawn. The Lawn and Weed Expert can advise you if your lawn requires scarifying but most lawns benefit from scarifying at least every 2 – 3 years depending on soil and weather conditions.

Lawn Thatch and How to Remove It.

Lawn Care and Weed ControlGrass plants even in the healthiest and well maintained lawns die to be replaced by new grass plants. The dead stalks lie with other vegetable debris on the soil surface forming a layer of dead organic material called thatch.

A small amount of thatch on the soil surface is acceptable as it will gradually decompose; its nutrients will be digested and broken down by bacteria naturally present in the soil who return it to the soil where they will be taken in as nutrients(food) by the new grass plants.

If the bacteria in the soil cannot digest the thatch on the soil surface fast enough an excess builds up and acts like blotting paper blocking the flow of moisture and air to the soil and grass roots.

In dry periods thatch holds much needed water near the surface preventing moisture getting to the roots. During Autumn and Winter in wetter periods the surface thatch remains damp and humid creating ideal conditions for moss and many grass & turf diseases to flourish.

If your lawn feels spongy when you walk across it you either have thatch or have been using fertilisers with excessive cheap nitrogen that have encouraged too much surge growth in the grass. Too much top growth is not desirable and will cause problems. If your lawn is thick and spongy your lawn should be scarified. Lawn and Weed Expert will check your lawns each time we visit to assess if scarifying is required.

Lawn and Garden Weed Control & Killing Services

Weeds are quick to colonise any space in your lawn and quickly become a nuisance spoiling the appearance of any lawn.

Off the Shelf Weed Killers do an job of combatting weeds but unless the conditions for weed colonisation and grwoth are treated they will be back!

Our ‘Cheaper than DIY’ Weed Killing Service

Our Weed Killing Service doesn’t just treat the weed growth but also tackles the conditions which promote that growth, and as experts in our field we can devise a weed control plan that goes on working where other treatments fail, saving you the endless cost off self application.

Our Free Lawn Weed Survey

If you have recurring or problematic weed growth take advantage of our Free Lawn Survey worth £25 (click here to find out more), or to find out more about the types of weeds we control…carry on reading:

We’ve outlined some of the most commonly treated weeds below.

  • Japanese Knotweed
  • dandelions
  • speedwell
  • plantains
  • clovers
  • celandine
  • Field wood rush
  • Couch grass
  • Yarrow
  • Mares Tail (Horsetail)
  • Nettles and brambles
  • Ragwort
  • daisies
  • buttercup
  • Dock
  • Ground elder
  • bindweed
  • Stinging nettles

Control of Commonly occurring weeds

The efficient broad spectrum systemic herbicides lawn and weed expert use are safe, very effective and control weeds easily. The products are not available to the general public or most small gardeners as they contain specific active ingredients – 2.4.D, Meca prop and Di cambra – not usually found in retail style products . Common weeds such as daisies, buttercup, dandelions, plantains etc are usually controlled after one application. Certain weeds such as yarrow, field wood rush, speedwells clovers and celandine require more than one application. Repeated applications will control new weed plants from seeds carried by birds, the wind and laying those dormant in the soil. Weeds are approx 70 % water and will usually decompose completely 14 days after treatment from Lawn and Weed Expert. Herbicides are usually applied during periods of vigorous grass growth, such as the spring, summer & late autumn when weeds are also growing too.

Lawn Care and Weed ControlIf you have weeds and want to control them call us and we will easily control even the most difficult of weeds and give you a relatively weed free lawn. Lawn and Weed Expert herbicides contain a larger range of effective key active chemicals such as 2.4.D and meca prop dicamba, fluroxypyr. Methyl epthyl ester not always contained together in products purchased in the retail market The herbicides and products we use are safe for wild life, pets and children. You can usually use the lawn 2 hours after we have treated it.

Herbicide applications to control weeds etc are only a small part of any lawn care program and should be carried out combined with regular applications of various professional fertiliser to establish a thick healthy grass sward to help prevent the appearance of weeds and moss. Feeding your grass with the correct fertiliser regularly and improving the grass condition with scarifying and aeration all play an important part of weed and moss control.

Coarse grasses in lawns

Annual meadow grass sometimes called Couch grass appears as tuft like clumps of grass that grows faster than other more desirable species of grass such as bents fescues and rye grasses. After moss coarse grasses appear to be one of the biggest concerns for lawns. It is irritating that after controlling weeds and moss that unwanted grass species seeds spreads by birds and wind should move into your lawn and spoil the appearance.

The appearance of coarse grasses invading well maintained healthy lawns is frustrating. The more desirable grass species stop growing and even die off at certain times of the year. The hardier coarse grasses continue to grow and colonise the space left. The grass has creeping underground stems that help it spread great distances. There are no selective weed killers that can be used against coarse grasses. Ask your lawn and weed expert for advice how to control the growth of coarse grasses. Regular application of essential lawn care treatments will keep your lawn healthy and can help to prevent weeds and coarse grass.

More Difficult Weeds.

Field wood rush

Wood rush is a Grass like perennial weed, with dark green, broad bladed leaves with dark brown flowers and seed heads. Field woodrush has the reputation for being difficult to control. Poorly nourished soil is a key reason for woodrush. Lawn and Weed Expert has a range of selective herbicides to control this difficult weed and can help you keep it under control.


Speedwell are resistant to many weed killers. They can be spread across lawns in the clipping dropped when mowing the lawn. Parts of the speedwell plant cut up in the mower clippings will quickly root and develop as new plants. Weak grass encourages speedwell so correct and regular fertilisation is vital to strengthen the grass. Lawn and Weed Expert can treat all speedwells with one of our specialist selective herbicides.


Grass weakened by long periods of dry weather and poorly nourished can weaken and allow weeds such as yarrow to become established and develop. Lawn and Weed Expert has a selective herbicide to control Yarrow.

Mares Tail or more correctly Horsetail.

Said to be one of the oldest plant found in the domestic garden. Mares tail fossils have been found dating back 30 million years. This hardy adaptable plant has survived for a reason and can be a difficult plant to control without the right herbicides. Mares Tail starts to develop in the spring with brown green shoots appearing laden with spores. Like most weeds it likes poor under fertilised soils with weak grass. Once the spores have germinated the plants sends out roots that travel away from the plant sometimes to a depth of over 1 metre. The waxy coating makes general purpose weed killers almost useless. Lawn and Weed Expert has a successful track record controlling horsetail commonly incorrectly called Mares tail. Mares tail usually grows in marshy conditions near ponds. Do not try to dig this weed out as the plant breaks up into numerous filaments that are all viable and can form new plants. Disturbing the soil encourages growth from dormant roots. We have years of experience and success controlling this plant and can provide you with help and advice how to control this weed.

Baby’s tears (Sometimes called “Mind your own business”)

Difficult weed that works its way into brick work and stone walls etc. Requires several applications of herbicide to control it but it is very persistent and can spread quickly from the smallest piece of the plant. Must be treated with systemic herbicide as the roots are extensive.

Nettles and brambles

Nettles and brambles are fairly common weeds which are easily controlled by several applications of our specialist herbicides. dead nettles decompose. Dead brambles are quite woody and may need cutting to clear.

Japanese knot weed.

There is an urban myth about controlling this plant. The plant is difficult to control if you do not use the right combination of herbicides at the right time. Lawn and Weed Expert has many years successful experience controlling and eradicating knot weed from gardens and other sites. This plant has a huge reputation and has been described as almost impossible to control and many colonies of knot weed have been dug out and transported to specially licensed sites at a great deal of expense. The plant can be easily and relatively inexpensively controlled with the relevant herbicide applied at the relevant time and with the right techniques. Lawn and Weed Expert and its sister company Taylor Total weed control Ltd has cleared numerous sites of knot weed at a fraction of the cost of other methods.

Japanese Knotweed was imported to shore up canal and railway sidings during the industrial revolution. It has bamboo like stems that grow to up to 3 metres with large spade shaped leaves. The plant has thick cuticle like skin on the leaf. The plant spreads by developing a large network of rhizome which can travel underground and spring up distances of up to 10 metres away from the parent plant. The seeds are sterile but the heavy leaf canopy created by the plant produces a sterile area beneath the canopy that prevents colonisation by other plants etc. Control has to be focused on the rhizome in order to defeat this plant. Probably one of the most troublesome invasive plants in Europe and America. Lawn and Weed Expert and its sister company Taylor Total Weed Control Ltd have a great track record controlling Japanese knotweed. We have killed Japanese knotweed for years and will continue to eradicate it for years to come.


Tall plant with bright yellow flowers. Dangerous to mammals particularly horses. The alkaloid in the plant accumulates in the body if eaten or absorbed through the skin and can cause problems with the liver. Fairly easy to control but should be treated quite early in the year. People make the mistake of pulling it out usually leaving a small piece of root which comes back the following year. Pulling the weed is good exercise but not as effective as applying a herbicide. If you are in contact with ragwort try to wear a glove to reduce absorbing alkaloid through your skin.


Not technically a weed but part of the family known as a legume. Plants that “fix” nitrogen into the soil from the atmosphere therefore a useful plant in agriculture but considered by the gardener as unwelcome in any lawn. Clovers tend to appear later in the growing season and can require more than one application of the relevant herbicide to be brought under control. They do not present a problem to Lawn and Weed Expert.